#5. Can modern flare mix with traditional flavors?
In bright times and dark times, music can serve as a sanctuary of emotional comfort and inspiration. Depending on your mood, our musical palettes vary across a spectrum of artists. I have found solace in Frank Sinatra’s “traditional” greatest hits, all the way to “modern” club bangers from K-pop boy band BTS. Both eras of music have the ability to bring me joy and comfort, but can they co-exist on the same stage? I’d love to say yes, however, Frank Sinatra may roll-over in his grave if he heard a BTS cover of “Fly Me To The Moon”. As we know, music evolves over eras, which means the basic necessity of life, food, must as well.
We perpetually find ourselves in the discussion of what’s best: sticking to the traditional, authentic dishes versus incorporating modern, fresh renditions of the oldies. This can fire up some major emotions, and not only because it’s a conversation we typically have while hangry. As I reflect on my loyalist foundation, very few places come to mind that have successfully been able to combine traditional with modern. It’s no easy task and you are at risk of pissing off many traditionalists who can’t think past their grandma’s gravy. But if you can pull off keeping the special characteristics of an authentic dish, while still transforming it into something fresh and creative, that’s music to my ears. Papito, a Mexican oysteria on a lively corner of Hayes Valley San Francisco, has done just that, making its mark by serving great organic Mexican food with a modern twist of French. Coupled with the superb service, Papito is a foundational building block to me becoming a loyalist.
Papito was opened in 2014 by Jocelyn Bulow and David Alexander, who had already established themselves in Hayes Valley with their french restaurant, Chez Maman. I imagine the pair realized that the neighborhood was in need of Mexican food, but also realized that SF hipsters would most likely shun a purely authentic Mexican restaurant, pointing only to their favorite burrito stand in the Mission. With backgrounds in French cuisine, and being in a neighborhood with a plethora of French influence, they knew adding a French twist to traditional Mexican menu items would keep an ever changing crowd on their toes.
From the first moment I walked in the Papito door, I felt at home. David and his right hand man, Raul, provided a cheerful and warm welcome - a crucial basis for creating loyal customers. I was lucky enough to live only a couple blocks from Papito, and I quickly got to know David and Raul’s management style. They treated each and every customer with respect, and dedication, ensuring that everyone who came in was kept top of mind. One particular moment that has stuck with me is when I brought my parents to Papito, who are infamous for having an incessant amount of requests at restaurants (possibly offensive towards the chefs). However, this did not scare off David. He took my parent’s requests with stride (add extra verde sauce, make the sauce spicier, to name a few), and even responded by thanking them for the feedback. He continued to be kind while I profusely and embarrassingly apologized. He also brought us sample dishes on the house, just to ensure my parents had a good experience. There was a feeling of community and acceptance at Papito, and I knew I wanted to give back with my loyalty. But the foundation of my loyalty didn’t stop at the service.
At the end of day Papito is in the business of making food (aka a restaurant), and I would show up hungry. The dishes have a deep level of authenticity and traditionally-rooted flavors, but with a dash of modern touch and presentation. For example, I am very particular about my enchiladas and typically prefer them old school and classic, like an original Frank Sinatra hit. Papito kept the rich flavor and texture of traditional enchiladas but presented it with a flare. A complex, robust sauce, broiling over rice, beans, and enchiladas inside a piping hot cast iron skillet. Although skeptical at first, I came to love this dish and have not forgotten it. Another favorite, sizzling fajitas, are also on the menu, with the option to step it up with some foundational French ingredients, such as duck Confit. The point is, Papito gives you the option of both traditional and modern, without forcing you to choose one over the other. It’s like I could have it “My Way”, while also enjoying the DJ Khaled remix by ordering a New York steak with salsa molcajete.
When I think back, I have sympathy for restaurateurs in San Francisco, who need to please a tough crowd of diners. You have your everyday hipsters thirsty for the next best thing but still opinionated on the most authentic way to make kombucha. On the other spectrum, you have the trendy techies, IPO-ing, and raising prices all around the Bay, forcing restaurants to become more upscale. Papito has created a niche for itself, in an iconic central SF neighborhood, which is a perfect case study of these opposing forces, or as one Yelper reviewed (with more adjectives than I am able to muster)...
That's the Papito vibe... young, hip optimism with a sprinkle of spicy wit, acidic and acerbic naiveté, and casual ease of approachable familiar Mexican fare, with an unprecedented understanding of the pulse of the new Western Edition.
Nailed it! I think? For simplicity's sake, let’s just recap that Papito continues to be a fan favorite by releasing banger after banger.
💡 LOYAL-LIST INSIDER TIP! My Loyalist Tip is a bit unorthodox this time around. After a quite tumultuous 2020, it may take months or even years for many restaurants to bounce back financially. However, strong communities built on trust are hard to break. That community sunk in when I sat at the Papito bar, and was able to have informal conversations with David and Raul while they ran the place like a well oiled machine. I learned that David had a newborn while managing a new restaurant, and Raul’s welcoming smile would never let on what a tough day it had actually been. And if I got lucky, David and Raul would let me taste their latest test recipe for a new ceviche or margarita. That’s why my tip is, next time you are able to meander into Papito, or any favorite restaurant for that matter, take a seat at the bar, listen to the servers and proprietors and learn something new!
Now that you’ve understood my foundational love for Papito, let’s go back to our original question of what’s better, traditional or modern. The English word “restaurant” is derived from the French word “restaurer”, meaning ‘to restore’ or ‘to revive’. The early 17th century restaurants would revive their customers after a long day of travel, or simply after they were sick of spending so much time in their kitchen. At the same time, modern day restaurants have restored and revived traditional recipes over decades and centuries, into the dishes that we know and love today. Papito is proof that respecting tradition while taking into account new modern tastes can work, if you take the time to listen, learn, and restore. Papito gives me faith that a K-Pop boy band like BTS could indeed get on the same stage and set out on a Frank Sinatra Remembrance Tour (BTS production team hit me up to discuss). If you take a look at Papito’s Yelp reviews, you’ll notice David takes the time to respond to his customers and loyalists to ensure they feel heard. Here’s just one of his many responses that hits home:
“I just want to thank you [name], for taking the time to write this great review. We work hard to make fresh food daily, and the entire FOH [Front of House] and Raul work hard to make people happy and comfortable. It’s always rewarding when it gets noticed, and makes our guests happy. Have a great weekend, and I hope to see you soon! David”
Thank you to David, Raul, and the Papito family for showing what it means to be a community and continuing to teach me what it means to be a loyalist.